Story Book

Mwalimu Travels… to South Sudan

When the year begun I had purposed to see more of the world and get out of my comfort zone that is Nairobi and tour a whole lot! My sister Faith had always been inviting me to visit her in South Sudan where she works and stays.

I made up my mind to finally do so at the end of July.

When I landed she and her man were there to pick me up from the airport and did it in style. I had a car waiting for me to whisk me to the VIP Lounge… Unlike in Nairobi where the VIP lounge can only be accessed by dignitaries and celebrity super stars, here, for 30 dollars you can book your space in the lounge before departure or as you get to the country.

The weather was nice this time of year. Just warm enough.. reminded me of the weather in Mombasa. Just the way I like it. I‘ve been told it can get very hot though! Up to 50 degrees! I came prepared with sundresses and sun glasses. Lol.

There are no Ubers here, so you have to know a taxi guy who will take you where you need to be. I was met with smiling faces when we left the lounge, heading to the white 4×4 car. A teenage boy wearing a silver crucifix earring asked my sister and I if we needed help carrying our luggage. We politely declined but I engaged him in small talk. “You look like a rapper! I told him. “What music do you  like?” He smiled and proceeded to tell me he spoke very little English. We bumped fists and I went to the car.

I was staying at Afex River Camp a nice accommodation spot next to the river Nile. The longest river in Africa. She’s majestic yet gives a soothing sound especially in the evenings as you sip on your cold beer or Sauvignon Blanc.

                   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Afex is well situated in the capital, about half an hour from the airport. It’s affordable with modest rooms that are ideal for NGO’s and corporations working and living in Juba.

I don’t have many pictures outside the gates of Afex as it is prohibited to take pictures in public spaces and of certain buildings. You could actually get arrested.. and I know that life isn’t for a soft girl like me. Haha. This is one of the places you come and enjoy and be in the moment. No IG moments.

The night life is relatively vibrant, with clubs that operate to the wee hours of the morning but many organizations that have their people here, (NGO’s and UN etc) have curfew’s for their people and advise them to return to their accommodation by 9PM latest, for security reasons.

While I was out however, I had fun.

  

 

          

One of those memorable moments was going out with a new friend I made, an Ethiopian working in Juba, called Abey. We went to an Ethiopian spot called Gambela and as I told him, this wasn’t just a meal, it was an EXPERIENCE. Sure I’ve enjoyed Ethiopian food here in Kenya, but this was different. Abey explained the culture and history. The experience started with Injera (the thin sour bread that was grey this time, not the usual white) and he told me that once the bread is kneaded  it is left to settle for 3 days hence the sour taste.

While we enjoyed the delicious meal that also had spicy thinly sliced pieces of goat meat, he invited his friend to join us, also an Ethiopian, a doctor, and we immediately kicked off conversations. A free spirited man with a good sense of humor. Abey reminded me of the importance of eating together as brothers from one big platter as it is the Ethiopian way.

Abey’s friend then ordered another platter that had injera and matumbo (yeesss matumbo!) cut in small pieces, mixed with more goat meat. These men could eat! Haha! I was so in the moment I didn’t take pictures but believe me the meal was delicious! And I’m not exactly a fan of matumbo here at home! I think it was the spices in the matumbo that made it so tasty! Now I was SURE this food experience was done because I was stuffed! But shock on me. A hollow small sized charcoal stove loaded with roasted goat meat (we would call this nyama choma) was brought to the table!

The gentlemen told me this was just a snack to nibble on after the main meal and is eaten while light conversations were happening. Hahaha! I couldn’t believe it! I had to ask if this now concluded the feast we were having and to great relief they said, yes. Somewhat. Lol! I told them I couldn’t eat any more and I had had waaay more than enough.

Now, when you bow out from the feast, you are not allowed to wash your hands until everyone else is done. To wash before others are done would be a sign of disrespect.. so I licked my fingers and sat with them as we talked some more, waiting for them to finish eating.

After the meal was done, Abey told me we now had to take special  shots from Ethiopia that one takes after the full meal. To help with digestion. At first I laughed and thought he was kidding but the was dead serious. I took my shot very willingly expecting a sharp bitter taste of tequilla but was taken aback by this sugary sambuca-ry flavor down my throat. I immediately ordered another one. Haha! This reminds me that I really should take lots of water now that I’m back home… The last 3 days, my insides have been flooded with wine and shots. Lol.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You would think that these shots would mark the end of the experience but no..there was more! It was now coffee and popcorn time. Hahaha I swear I can’t make this stuff up! Thank goodness I was wearing a free dress or I would be BURSTING by the seams! I had to kindly excuse myself from taking the coffee as I’m not a fan of how extra hyper it gets me.. Abey let me off the hook as he took his black coffee with lots of sugar in those tiny cups.

While we were talking about Ethiopian women and how our Kenyan men lust over them, a beautiful lady with ahead wrap and beautiful smile walked up to us while flipping coffee beans in a hot shallow pan, roasting them…

At first I thought she was from the kitchen having heard our conversion and wanted to chip in! Haha! Turns out as a guest of honor, you are celebrated by having this pan come to you so you can soak in the aroma of roasting coffee beans to catch a whiff of Ethiopia. Abey says with this aroma he is immediately teleported back to Ethiopia and this is  how he remembers home… Argh! How beautiful is that?  A culture so rich. I love it! This marked the end of the experience and we left for Afex. The South Sudan basketball team was playing against Puerto Rico in the Paris Olympics, and we had to join our friends to cheer them on! Miya miya!

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